Grand Canyon
Grand Canyon, 31st May 2007
Just been to the Grand Canyon. Maybe not the most original place to go to in the US but, WOW! This amazing terracotta scar that stretches for 277 miles has been created by the Colorado River’s tireless wearing down of the rock over six million years. In doing so, it has exposed two billion years worth of the earth’s history. It blows your mind. There is little wonder that people such as the Pueblo tribe consider this ground to be sacred. If I spent my life in its shadow and under its awe I'd no doubt feel the same. In fact I think I do already. You can’t help but feel that the Native Americans that call this place home are blessed.
Well, maybe not so much now. I don’t think they could have foreseen the changes that would take place once the first white man laid eyes on their canyon (the brochure here says he was a Spaniard called García López de Cárdenas from Spain, who arrived in 1540).
Because as much as it knocks the breath out of you to see this place, the tourist trade and the inevitable baggage that it brings along puts a scar upon this mother of all scars. Buses pile in and disgorge guts full of overweight Americans, who drop sweet wrappers and scream at their children, their noise amplified by the incredible natural acoustics that surround them.
However, not all of this is detrimental to the social health of the indigenous Grand Canyoners. A good example of this is the Grand Canyon Skywalk. Built by the Hualapai people, this is a terrifying walkway that juts out and over a 1000 metre drop. Glass floors gave me the feeling of walking on air, though with unimaginably heavy legs. Having driven down 14 miles of dirt track to get to this attraction, I then parted with $85 in order to scare myself shitless. There were disapproving mutterings from my fellow tourists, but as far as I see it our very presence there is disturbing a people’s sacred ground so we should pay through the nose for it. I just hope it goes back to the people rather some small group of money grabbers. My only real disappointment was we weren’t allowed to take photos once on the walkway. I can’t imagine why.
If I had more time, I would definitely go to the Toroweap Overlook. A friend of mine went there last year. He drove 100 miles down a dirt track to one of the most remote areas of the US . He’s from Brooklyn so imagine how he must have felt. There you stand on top of a 3000 ft vertical descent. Imagine that.
Ps. A real treat. Saw a condor circling above us, riding the currents that carreer through this deep-blue sky. Apparently they're all numbered to aid wildlife researchers. There are 172 in the wild round here so felt really privileged.
